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Thursday, October 29

Republic Day — food walk and fireworks

Culinary Backstreets · Bank Roof Bar

Daily Diary (photos and notes)
Directions →Meeting point map →Tour page →Call The Bank HotelDirections →Site →

Weather

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The day

We close in Karaköy — Metin, the food walk, roof fireworks.

Daily Diary

  • What it celebrates: On October 29, 1923, the Grand National Assembly in Ankara proclaimed the Republic of Turkey, and Mustafa Kemal Atatürk became its first president. It was the political end of the 600-year Ottoman Empire, which had collapsed after World War I and a war of independence. Atatürk then moved the capital to Ankara, abolished the caliphate, and pushed through sweeping secular reforms: the Latin alphabet, Western law codes and calendar, and women's suffrage. This year is the 103rd anniversary. The holiday runs from noon on Oct 28 through Oct 29. How it feels on the ground: It's patriotic and genuinely popular across the political spectrum. You'll see huge flags draped on buildings, Atatürk portraits in shop windows, and families out in the streets. Schools and government offices are closed

    Susan B · 8:19 AM

Meals

The walk includes the midday eats. Çiya is only if we want a Kadıköy sit-down.

Kadıköy · only if we want a sit-down. The walk includes the midday eats.

Lunch Search

  • Çiya Sofrası

    How to say it: chee-YAH sohf-rah-SUH

    The sit-down if we want one after the market walk. Regional Turkish, walk-in, 11:00–22:00. The link is their daily menu.

    Menu →Maps →

    English menu (keto notes), phone and details below ↓

  • Çiya Kebap

    How to say it: chee-YAH keh-BAHP

    The kebab room next door, if Sofrası is packed. Same hours.

    Menu →Maps →
    Menu in English (keto notes)

    From: Çiya's English dish list (the menu rotates daily; there was no menu posted for Oct 18). Checked Oct 18, 2026. Only dishes on that menu, in English; no prices.

    ✓ keto ok · ≈ careful / ask · ✗ skip

    Kebabs · Kebaplar (keh-bahp-LAHR)

    • ✓ Kağıt Kebap (kah-UHT keh-BAHP) — kebab baked in paper.
    • ✓ Patlıcan Kebabı (paht-luh-JAHN keh-bah-BUH) — minced-meat and eggplant kebab.
    • ≈ Soğan Kebabı / Sarımsak Kebabı (soh-AHN keh-bah-BUH sah-ruhm-SAHK keh-bah-BUH) — onion / garlic kebab. sweet glaze on some
    • ✓ Şiş Kebap (SHEESH keh-BAHP) — veal chunks on a skewer.
    • ✗ Lahmacun (lah-mah-JOON) — thin meat-topped flatbread.
    • ✗ Vişne Kebabı (veesh-NEH keh-bah-BUH) — kebab with sour cherry. fruit sauce

    Meat dishes · Etli Yemekler (et-LEE yeh-mek-LEHR)

    • ✗ Havuç Dolması (hah-VOOCH dohl-mah-SUH) — carrots stuffed with meat, rice, bulgur.
    • ✗ Acem Köfte (ah-JEM kurf-TEH) — meatballs with chickpeas and apricot.

    Salads and meze · Salatalar (sah-lah-tah-LAHR)

    • ✓ Cacık (jah-JUHK) — cucumber, garlic, yogurt, mint.
    • ✓ Ezme (ez-MEH) — tomato, pepper, onion, mint, sumac, pomegranate syrup.
    • ✓ Kekik Salatası (keh-KEEK sah-LAH-tah-suh) — thyme, parsley, onion, red pepper.
    • ✓ Kuzu Kulağı Salatası (koo-ZOO koo-lah-UH sah-LAH-tah-suh) — sorrel salad.
    • ✓ Pirpirim (Semizotu) Ekşisi (peer-pee-REEM seh-mee-zoh-TOO ek-shee-SEE) — purslane, cucumber, tomato.
    • ✗ Sarma İçi (Kısır) (sahr-MAH ee-CHEE kuh-SUHR) — bulgur salad.

    Rice and bulgur · Pilavlar (pee-lahv-LAHR)

    • ✗ All pilafs (bulgur, rice, firik).

    Best keto choices

    1. Kağıt Kebap (kah-UHT keh-BAHP), Şiş (SHEESH) or Patlıcan Kebabı (paht-luh-JAHN keh-bah-BUH) with Cacık (jah-JUHK) and an herb salad; skip bread and pilav.

    Keto ordering phrases with audio →

  • Yanyalı Fehmi

    How to say it: yahn-yah-LUH feh-MEE

    Old lokanta near the market. Home-style trays, modest. No menu online.

    Maps →
    Menu in English (keto notes) · general guidance

    Menu not found online. Typical keto picks at a home-cooking lokanta / village restaurant — general guidance, not this restaurant’s menu.

    ✓ keto ok · ≈ careful / ask · ✗ skip

    Typical dishes

    • ≈ Izgara Köfte (uhz-gah-RAH kurf-TEH) — grilled meatballs (a little bread in the mix). ask pilavsız (pee-lahv-SUHZ)
    • ✓ Tavuk Şiş (tah-VOOK SHEESH) — grilled chicken skewer. ask pilavsız (pee-lahv-SUHZ)
    • ✓ Kuzu Şiş (koo-ZOO SHEESH) — grilled lamb skewer.
    • ✓ Sac Kavurma (SAHJ kah-voor-MAH) — meat stir-fried with peppers and tomato.
    • ≈ Zeytinyağlı (zay-teen-yah-LUH) — vegetables cooked in olive oil, served cold. some have rice or sugar
    • ✗ Kuru Fasulye (koo-ROO fah-sool-YEH) — white bean stew. beans
    • ✗ Mercimek Çorbası (mehr-jee-MEK chohr-bah-SUH) — lentil soup.
    • ✗ Pide / Lahmacun / Gözleme (pee-DEH lah-mah-JOON gurz-leh-MEH) — flatbreads and pies.
    • ✓ Cacık (jah-JUHK) — yogurt with cucumber and garlic.
    • ✓ Çoban Salata (choh-BAHN sah-LAH-tah) — shepherd's salad.

    Best keto bet

    1. A grill (şiş (SHEESH), kavurma (kah-voor-MAH)) with salad and cacık (jah-JUHK); skip the bread basket and pilav.

    Say it when you order

    • Ekmeksiz, lütfen (ek-MEK-seez, LEWT-fen) — Without bread, please
    • Pilavsız (pee-lahv-SUHZ) — Without rice
    • Patatessiz (pah-tah-tes-SEEZ) — Without potatoes / fries
    • Lavaşsız (lah-vahsh-SUHZ) — Without the flatbread wrap
    • Unsuz (oon-SOOZ) — Without flour (not floured or breaded)
    • Şekersiz (sheh-KEHR-seez) — Without sugar

    Keto ordering phrases with audio →

  • Baylan

    How to say it: bai-LAHN

    Historic pastry shop. The light option — kup and cakes, not a full dinner. No menu online.

    Maps →
    Menu in English (keto notes) · general guidance

    Menu not found online. Typical keto picks at a pastry and dessert shop — general guidance, not this restaurant’s menu.

    ✓ keto ok · ≈ careful / ask · ✗ skip

    Typical dishes

    • ✗ Baklava / Kadayıf (bahk-lah-VAH kah-dah-YUHF) — syrup pastries.
    • ✗ Börek (bur-REK) — savory flaky pastry.
    • ✗ Dondurma (dohn-door-MAH) — ice cream.
    • ✓ Türk Kahvesi Sade (TEWRK kah-veh-SEE sah-DEH) — Turkish coffee, no sugar.
    • ✓ Çay (CHAI) — tea.

    Best keto bet

    1. Nothing keto here except tea or sade (sah-DEH) Turkish coffee.

    Say it when you order

    • Ekmeksiz, lütfen (ek-MEK-seez, LEWT-fen) — Without bread, please
    • Pilavsız (pee-lahv-SUHZ) — Without rice
    • Patatessiz (pah-tah-tes-SEEZ) — Without potatoes / fries
    • Lavaşsız (lah-vahsh-SUHZ) — Without the flatbread wrap
    • Unsuz (oon-SOOZ) — Without flour (not floured or breaded)
    • Şekersiz (sheh-KEHR-seez) — Without sugar

    Keto ordering phrases with audio →

Karaköy · after the roof fireworks

Dinner Search

  • Karaköy Lokantası

    How to say it: kah-rah-KOY loh-KAHN-tah-suh

    The one to book near the hotel. Dinner Mon–Sat from 17:30, Sunday from 16:00. No dish list on the site.

    Menu →Maps →
    Menu in English (keto notes) · general guidance

    Menu not found online. Its site describes lunch as esnaf lokantası casseroles and dinner as meze with rakı, but lists no dishes. Typical keto picks at a meyhane / meze and grill restaurant — general guidance, not this restaurant’s menu.

    ✓ keto ok · ≈ careful / ask · ✗ skip

    Typical dishes

    • ✓ Beyaz Peynir (beh-YAHZ pay-NEER) — white sheep's cheese.
    • ✓ Haydari (hai-dah-REE) — garlic-mint strained yogurt.
    • ✓ Lakerda (lah-kehr-DAH) — salt-cured bonito.
    • ✓ Ahtapot Izgara (ah-tah-POHT uhz-gah-RAH) — grilled octopus.
    • ✓ Patlıcan Salatası (paht-luh-JAHN sah-LAH-tah-suh) — smoky eggplant salad.
    • ✗ Midye Dolma (meed-YEH dohl-MAH) — mussels stuffed with rice.
    • ✗ Kalamar Tava (kah-lah-MAHR tah-VAH) — fried squid.
    • ✗ Fava (fah-VAH) — broad-bean purée.
    • ✓ Izgara Balık / Kuzu Şiş (uhz-gah-RAH bah-LUHK koo-ZOO SHEESH) — grilled fish / lamb skewer.
    • ✓ Rakı (rah-KUH) — anise spirit (no sugar). in moderation

    Best keto bet

    1. Cheese, yogurt and seafood mezes, then grilled fish or lamb; skip the bread and fried plates.

    Say it when you order

    • Ekmeksiz, lütfen (ek-MEK-seez, LEWT-fen) — Without bread, please
    • Pilavsız (pee-lahv-SUHZ) — Without rice
    • Patatessiz (pah-tah-tes-SEEZ) — Without potatoes / fries
    • Lavaşsız (lah-vahsh-SUHZ) — Without the flatbread wrap
    • Unsuz (oon-SOOZ) — Without flour (not floured or breaded)
    • Şekersiz (sheh-KEHR-seez) — Without sugar

    Keto ordering phrases with audio →

  • Mükellef

    How to say it: mew-kel-LEF

    Modern meyhane on Kemankeş, a short walk. No menu page we could verify.

    Maps →
    Menu in English (keto notes) · general guidance

    Menu not found online. Typical keto picks at a meyhane / meze and grill restaurant — general guidance, not this restaurant’s menu.

    ✓ keto ok · ≈ careful / ask · ✗ skip

    Typical dishes

    • ✓ Beyaz Peynir (beh-YAHZ pay-NEER) — white sheep's cheese.
    • ✓ Haydari (hai-dah-REE) — garlic-mint strained yogurt.
    • ✓ Lakerda (lah-kehr-DAH) — salt-cured bonito.
    • ✓ Ahtapot Izgara (ah-tah-POHT uhz-gah-RAH) — grilled octopus.
    • ✓ Patlıcan Salatası (paht-luh-JAHN sah-LAH-tah-suh) — smoky eggplant salad.
    • ✗ Midye Dolma (meed-YEH dohl-MAH) — mussels stuffed with rice.
    • ✗ Kalamar Tava (kah-lah-MAHR tah-VAH) — fried squid.
    • ✗ Fava (fah-VAH) — broad-bean purée.
    • ✓ Izgara Balık / Kuzu Şiş (uhz-gah-RAH bah-LUHK koo-ZOO SHEESH) — grilled fish / lamb skewer.
    • ✓ Rakı (rah-KUH) — anise spirit (no sugar). in moderation

    Best keto bet

    1. Cheese, yogurt and seafood mezes, then grilled fish or lamb; skip the bread and fried plates.

    Say it when you order

    • Ekmeksiz, lütfen (ek-MEK-seez, LEWT-fen) — Without bread, please
    • Pilavsız (pee-lahv-SUHZ) — Without rice
    • Patatessiz (pah-tah-tes-SEEZ) — Without potatoes / fries
    • Lavaşsız (lah-vahsh-SUHZ) — Without the flatbread wrap
    • Unsuz (oon-SOOZ) — Without flour (not floured or breaded)
    • Şekersiz (sheh-KEHR-seez) — Without sugar

    Keto ordering phrases with audio →

  • The Bank Hotel

    Eat in the hotel if we get in late, as on the arrival night. No menu online.

    Maps →
    Menu in English (keto notes) · general guidance

    Menu not found online. Typical keto picks at a international bistro / café — general guidance, not this restaurant’s menu.

    ✓ keto ok · ≈ careful / ask · ✗ skip

    Typical dishes

    • ✓ Grilled steak, chicken or fish. ask for salad or vegetables instead of potatoes or rice
    • ≈ Burger. ekmeksiz (ek-MEK-seez) (bunless), patatessiz (pah-tah-tes-SEEZ) (no fries)
    • ✓ Caesar or green salad. no croutons
    • ✗ Pasta, pizza, sandwiches.
    • ✗ Cake and desserts.

    Best keto bet

    1. A grilled main with salad; a bunless burger if that is all there is.

    Say it when you order

    • Ekmeksiz, lütfen (ek-MEK-seez, LEWT-fen) — Without bread, please
    • Pilavsız (pee-lahv-SUHZ) — Without rice
    • Patatessiz (pah-tah-tes-SEEZ) — Without potatoes / fries
    • Lavaşsız (lah-vahsh-SUHZ) — Without the flatbread wrap
    • Unsuz (oon-SOOZ) — Without flour (not floured or breaded)
    • Şekersiz (sheh-KEHR-seez) — Without sugar

    Keto ordering phrases with audio →

Thu 29 · Kadıköy

Çiya Sofrası

How to say it: chee-YAH sohf-rah-SUH

Güneşlibahçe Sk. No. 43, Caferağa. Daily menu on the official site. Walk-in, daily 11:00–22:00.
Call Çiya SofrasıMenu →Directions →Site →
Menu in English (keto notes)

From: Çiya's English dish list (the menu rotates daily; there was no menu posted for Oct 18). Checked Oct 18, 2026. Only dishes on that menu, in English; no prices.

✓ keto ok · ≈ careful / ask · ✗ skip

Kebabs · Kebaplar (keh-bahp-LAHR)

  • ✓ Kağıt Kebap (kah-UHT keh-BAHP) — kebab baked in paper.
  • ✓ Patlıcan Kebabı (paht-luh-JAHN keh-bah-BUH) — minced-meat and eggplant kebab.
  • ≈ Soğan Kebabı / Sarımsak Kebabı (soh-AHN keh-bah-BUH sah-ruhm-SAHK keh-bah-BUH) — onion / garlic kebab. sweet glaze on some
  • ✓ Şiş Kebap (SHEESH keh-BAHP) — veal chunks on a skewer.
  • ✗ Lahmacun (lah-mah-JOON) — thin meat-topped flatbread.
  • ✗ Vişne Kebabı (veesh-NEH keh-bah-BUH) — kebab with sour cherry. fruit sauce

Meat dishes · Etli Yemekler (et-LEE yeh-mek-LEHR)

  • ✗ Havuç Dolması (hah-VOOCH dohl-mah-SUH) — carrots stuffed with meat, rice, bulgur.
  • ✗ Acem Köfte (ah-JEM kurf-TEH) — meatballs with chickpeas and apricot.

Salads and meze · Salatalar (sah-lah-tah-LAHR)

  • ✓ Cacık (jah-JUHK) — cucumber, garlic, yogurt, mint.
  • ✓ Ezme (ez-MEH) — tomato, pepper, onion, mint, sumac, pomegranate syrup.
  • ✓ Kekik Salatası (keh-KEEK sah-LAH-tah-suh) — thyme, parsley, onion, red pepper.
  • ✓ Kuzu Kulağı Salatası (koo-ZOO koo-lah-UH sah-LAH-tah-suh) — sorrel salad.
  • ✓ Pirpirim (Semizotu) Ekşisi (peer-pee-REEM seh-mee-zoh-TOO ek-shee-SEE) — purslane, cucumber, tomato.
  • ✗ Sarma İçi (Kısır) (sahr-MAH ee-CHEE kuh-SUHR) — bulgur salad.

Rice and bulgur · Pilavlar (pee-lahv-LAHR)

  • ✗ All pilafs (bulgur, rice, firik).

Best keto choices

  1. Kağıt Kebap (kah-UHT keh-BAHP), Şiş (SHEESH) or Patlıcan Kebabı (paht-luh-JAHN keh-bah-BUH) with Cacık (jah-JUHK) and an herb salad; skip bread and pilav.

Keto ordering phrases with audio →

All restaurants →

Tonight

Karaköy fish market

Map is the 10:30 meet. We sleep at the Bank Hotel.

Directions →
Thu 29 · Karaköy fish market

Culinary Backstreets meet

Two Markets, Two Continents, Thu 29 Oct, 10:30. Meet at the kiosk shop beside the Galata Bridge in Karaköy, under 50 m from the Karaköy fish market (Karaköy Balık Pazarı; by taxi, ask for that). Guide: Ibrahim, +90 537 965 57 98 — call if 15+ min late, lost, or any emergency. Office: +1 833 656 3531, walks@culinarybackstreets.com. Four adults, $600 paid, $0 due. Cancellation: 10% fee 7+ days out, 50% under 7 days, 100% under 3 days or no-show. Tour page — not a restaurant menu.
Directions →Meeting point map →Tour page →
27 Oct – 1 Nov · Karaköy

The Bank Hotel

Azapkapı, Bankalar Caddesi No. 5. Five nights, Tuesday 27 through Sunday 1 — a Design Hotels member. Istanbul close — Metin, the food walk, roof fireworks.
Call The Bank HotelDirections →Site →

Cash today

No cash payment is scheduled for this date.

Card, or not cash.

Culinary Backstreets is paid and confirmed ($600 for four, paid 18 Sep), so it is not in the cash totals.

Full-trip cash →